After the charming little flakes of last weekend’s snowstorm turned to grayish slush before the sun went down, I was just about ready to call it quits on New York forever. I had to do it — it being escape another COVID winter inside. And so I find myself here, in the city of angels, sucking down citrus by the gallon and eating tacos by the dozen. I will be honest, after a marathon of cooking throughout January, my belly was full (and slightly protruded), my hands were cracked from doing dishes, and my brain was checked out. So it will come as little surprise that since I hopped off the plane at LAX (with a dream and my cardigan), I have cooked all of two meals if you are feeling generous and want to count yogurt & granola. That’s why we’ve turned menu duties over to Emelyn Rude, food writer, author, and founder of Eaten Magazine, this week. She’s sharing her go-to dishes to celebrate the launch of their latest edition, No. 13: Breakfast, which is available now and ready to inspire your most important meal of the day, which can certainly be eaten any time of day. Dig in.
SO YOU WANT TO EAT LIKE EMELYN RUDE, FOUNDER OF EATEN MAGAZINE
Mushroom-Miso Pasta with Sage and Brown Butter: I don't like a lot of faff when I cook and very much also hate having to buy random ingredients for a single recipe that will end up just sitting in my cupboard for the next 8 to 10 years. As a result, most of the things I make on the regular come from basic pantry staples, case in point this pasta. Not only is it super easy to make but the brown butter and sage bit makes it sound much fancier than it actually is (it's always nice to feel fancy for no reason). I know miso is very hip at this moment but this particular recipe I adapted from a cookbook called Cosmic Cookery, which was originally published in the 1960s by a UFO worshiping/natural food store owning cult in Berkeley (I have a thing for literal cult cookbooks). It is full of magic and always works no matter what ratios you use. Basically you take butter and once it’s brown, add a dash of olive oil to up the burn temperature and then throw in mushrooms until they are also brown. In the meantime you cook the pasta and whip together some miso and some soy sauce. When the mushrooms are done, add some (raw) diced shallots, then throw in the pasta, the soy sauce + miso, and a heaping spoonful of pasta water. Cook until coated, throw in some chopped sage, et voila. Easy, tasty, and filling.
Fruit, Mint Adjika, and Dairy Toast: My friend bought me Olia Hercules' amazing Kaukasis after I got back from an extended trip in the Caucuses and it has become one of my go-to cookbooks since. This book has single-handedly made me realize the power of strong herbs and good fruit in savory dishes. After trying out even just a few of the recipes, I promise the way you understand food will never be the same. Besides the epic bean bread, this particular bruschetta-esque recipe is one of my absolute favorites. The tang of the yogurt goes spectacularly with the spicy saltiness of the mint adjika. Add whatever fruit is in season and you have a stunner of a snack or appetizer.
Baby Beets with Pistachio Yogurt and Pistachio Dukkah: This is more of a special occasion dish, mainly because the colors are amazing, but also an "I have beets and I also have dukkah on hand" dish. I was blessed with my first bite of dukkah, a Middle Eastern (but mainly Egyptian) nut and spice blend, when I worked for Chef Einat Admony in New York. I am proud to say that I now try to have some on my counter at all times because oh lord it is delicious on absolutely everything. This particular beet and dukkah dish also comes from my time with Chef Einat; it was originally on the menu at her now closed Bar Bolonat and I loved it so much I asked the sous chef to handwrite me a copy of the recipe, which I promptly lost. Since then, I've just been riffing what I assume the original recipe is, but it always manages to come out delicious. Essentially you boil and peel some baby beets, toss them in olive oil and a little salt and then set aside. Then chop up some pistachios and mix them into a good hefty chunk of full-fat yogurt. Spread this pistachio yogurt on a plate, plop the beets on top, then sprinkle aggressively with pistachio dukkah. Even the biggest beet hater on earth will be won over, I guarantee it.
TAKEOUT
Thank you to Megan Thee Stallion for releasing the Cheeto-themed anthem we didn’t know we needed. We’d bet twenty bucks and a bag of Hot Cheetos that this is a stunt to promote a Super Bowl ad, but either way, we’re here for it. Real Hot Chip Shit. Also, is this a direct response to our plea in last month’s newsletter????
The first season of And Just Like That came to a close last week, and our bodies have finally stopped twitching reflexively out of fear of Che. The season may be done, but god willing, the memes will live on.
New Yorkers were shocked to discover that Eric Adams, an alleged vegan, often orders fish when out to eat. But honestly, he just sounds like every other b*tch in Los Angeles.