APÉRITIF:
A couple of weeks ago I watched the last episode of The Sopranos, and ever since the screen went black, I’ve felt empty. A few things have made me feel temporarily whole again, like accidentally standing under a tree that starts raining hundreds of tiny orange and yellow leaves down on me, or stumbling upon an electric Citi Bike that actually works. But those things don’t come around very often, and apparently a lot of you have also been watching The Sopranos, so we’ve put together a list of comforting Italian recipes (in addition to our regular Dinner Plans) for when you inevitably start wondering if there’s even a point to life sans Sopranos. We promise they’re better than anything you could order at Vesuvio, which we know because one of us was in an episode of The Sopranos. I won’t share which one, because she wouldn’t want you to know, and also I absolutely want you to think it’s me.
ON THE MENU THIS WEEK:
DINNER PLANS
Koginut Squash on Toast: One of my favorite games to play when I cook is “How much would this cost at a restaurant?” This squash toast from would be a solid $14 (add $4 for a poached egg on top). I also know that because the recipe hails from ABCV in New York, where they realistically charge closer to $20. Top with a fried, poached, or jammy egg (no extra charge when you’re at home). If you’re vegan or lactose-averse like me, skip the ricotta, or whip up a batch of this simple ricotta-adjacent spread. Double or triple the batch of caramelized onions and use them to zhuzh up meals throughout the week. Use any kind of squash, but my favorites are Row 7’s Koginut and Honeynut, or kabocha. One rule: you gotta use good bread. So use this to showcase the sourdough you just spent 7 months perfecting, or if that hobby (and your starter) died long ago, patronize your local bakery. Also, even though the NYT says you simply can’t skip the mint, we say any soft herb or an extra hit of acid (think l6mon zest) will do the same to *Antoni voice* brighten up the dish. -CK
Pasta with Tuna, Arugula and Capers: Whenever I’m sick, stressed out, or sad for no reason, I make this tuna pasta. It’s just enough slicing and stirring and straining and serving to make you feel proud of yourself without actually having to do very much work. The TEN salty anchovies, the fancy tuna, lots and lots of spicy arugula, and maybe half a bunch of parsley (you will simply never catch me shoving herbs into a measuring cup) twirl together into a cure-all dinner. -GS
Lamb Burgers: This isn’t exactly a real recipe, but the great Frank Prisinzano taught me that recipes aren’t always necessary. When my grocery store was out of ground beef a few weeks ago, I bought lamb instead and went on with the burger night I had planned. I made 4-ounce patties, seasoned them with salt and pepper on both sides, set a cast iron skillet over very high heat and seared them for five minutes on each side. While those cooked, I made what we call ~herby feta~ in my house, where I use a fork to cream together ~1/4 cup of feta, the zest of one lemon, and two small handfuls of roughly chopped herbs (parsley, mint, dill, a mix). Then I toast English muffins (these are incredibly delicious) and spread a thick layer of herby feta onto one side and slide the sizzling lamb burger onto the other. Serve a little arugula tossed with lemon juice on top or on the side, and that’s dinner. -GS
SO YOU BINGED THE SOPRANOS AND NOW YOU WANT SOMETHING WITH GABAGOOL OR CARMELA’S LASAGNA WITH THE LAYER OF BASIL LEAVES RIGHT UNDERNEATH THE CHEESE?
Baked Pasta with Greens and Artichokes: I like to describe this baked pasta as a *rustic* (read: messy) lasagna meets white pizza meets spinach artichoke dip. It has three kinds of cheese and a little heavy cream, so I like to eat this with a big bowl of spicy arugula, thin slices of fennel and soft herbs tossed with lemon/mustard/balsamic/olive oil. If you own a copy of Dining In, you’ll find the recipe in there, but you can also find it right here.
Fusilli alla Vodka: Sometimes I forget TV characters aren’t real and wonder where they are today and what they’re doing. I like to think A.J. would be a nightclub-owning thirtysomething wearing too much cologne and living in LA. And if he were, he’d sure as hell be spending entirely too much money at Jon & Vinny’s to eat this fusilli vodka a table away from Brie Larson. So make this for dinner, throw on Captain Marvel, and you’re basically there.
Lamb Ragu: I always feel like Carmela Soprano when I make this lamb ragu. I’m Carmela when I simmer the sauce for just 30-ish minutes, when I boil the curly noodles until they’re almost too al dente, and especially when I watch my troubled but lovable friends and family cover their bowls of pasta with fresh mint and salty parmesan and realize the only thing I’m good at is feeding people.
Red Sauce: Lastly, a short note on my favorite marinar’. Being a third-generation Jersey girl, I know two things and neither is how to pump gas: 1. How to flip a table. 2. Red sauce. Marcella Hazan is the nonna I never had and while all of her recipes are incredible, her tomato sauce is red sauce royalty. It’s creamy, luxurious and the perfect base for any pasta, pizza, or parmigiana. So break out the parm and don’t say stop.
Sorry, no fuckin’ ziti!
TAKEOUT:
This week, I had dental surgery, and thus have been eating various forms of mush for six days straight. This has taught me two things: 1. Never underestimate the importance of texture. I am very much looking forward to the day I can go back to being an aspiring pickle-eating ASMR artist. 2. If you make store-bought pudding mix and gently fold in whipped cream you get the easiest, dreamiest chocolate mousse. This is decidedly the best pudding mix, and not just because of the retro packaging, don’t @ me Jello. Also, for those of you that don’t eat dairy or can’t digest it like me, this dairy-free whipping cream is a game changer.
I feel like it’s my job to remind everyone and warn anyone who hasn’t been yet (get a grip) that the best cookie at Levain Bakery is, and has always been, oatmeal raisin.
We received our first Sifted success stories and wow did they make our whole week! Please share your successes, failures, and everything in between.